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Chanel No. 5

                                                                                     

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel was born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. Her father abandoned her after her mother died and Coco was  raised in an orphanage where she acquired a skill that ultimately promoted her to fashion fame: she could sew.

 

By the time Coco was 27, she had opened a shop in Paris selling clothing  of her own design that was  simple and elegant, in sharp contrast to the fashions of the time which were very petite and romantic, with bright and dove colors as purple, pink, and peach and a lot of lace details. Elements of women's fashion in Paris in 1910 were uncomfortable, however,  and Coco’s focus on comfort and style resonated with modern women, By the 1920s, Chanel was one of the most influential fashion designers in the world. 

Like the shoe salesman who tries to cross-sell you a  tie or scarf, socks or nylon stockings, Coco decided to create a perfume that would complement her fashion line and embody the evolving modern woman's spirit. The fragrance had to be different, fresh and innovative. Coco hired Russian-French perfumer Ernest Beaux and put him on the scent.

Beaux presented Chanel with several samples, and she chose the one which included an unprecedented use of aldehydes (organic compounds that enhanced the scent's longevity and complexity). This blend featured floral notes like jasmine, rose, sandalwood, and vanilla.

Coco named the perfume "No. 5" simply because it was the fifth sample she selected. The number five was also her lucky number.

The design of the Chanel No. 5 bottle too was as groundbreaking as the fragrance itself. It featured a clean, minimalist look with simple lines, standing in stark contrast to the fancy ornate perfume bottles of the era. The bottle's design has remained essentially unchanged. 

Coco’s personal life, however,  can be described as less than fragrant: a polite and somewhat euphemistic way to infer that Coco’s personal conduct was controversial, morally and ethically questionable. The phrase correctly suggests that her private actions and choices did not always  align with the standards of society.

 When World War II broke out, Coco closed her fashion house. She stated that it was not a time for fashion. During the German occupation of Paris, Chanel lived at the Hôtel Ritz, which was also the headquarters for many high-ranking German military officers. It was here that she entered a romantic relationship with a German officer and intelligence agent. This relationship  led to accusations that Chanel collaborated with the Nazis and acted as an enemy agent. This is most likely true, but her defenders argue Coca was desperately trying to use her influence with the Nazis to secure her nephew Andre  Pallase’s release from prison. Palasse, a member of the French Resistance,  had been arrested by the Gestapo, the official secret police of Nazi Germany. The Gestapo was known for its brutal methods in dealing with members of the resistance.

 

In 1943, Chanel allegedly undertook a failed mission to Madrid as part of Operation Modellhut. The aim was to pass a message to Winston Churchill, in an attempt to broker a peace agreement between Germany and Britain.

After the liberation of Paris in 1944, Chanel was interrogated by the Free French Purge Committee, but she was not formally charged with wrongdoing. Winston Churchill is said to have personally intervened on her behalf, leading to her release.

Coco made a triumphant return to the fashion industry in 1954, reopening her fashion house and despite her wartime controversies, she successfully reestablished her brand, which remains influential to this day.

A prolific fashion creator, Chanel extended her influence beyond couture clothing, realizing her aesthetic design in jewelry, handbags, and fragrance. Her signature scent, Chanel No. 5, has become an iconic product, and Chanel herself designed her famed interlocked-CC monogram, which has been in use since the 1920s.

 

While Chanel's wartime activities have cast a shadow over her legacy, her contributions to fashion are undeniable. Her designs, including the iconic Chanel suit and Chanel No. 5 perfume, continue to be celebrated.

Chanel No. 5 revolutionized the perfume industry by introducing a complex, synthetic fragrance that broke away from traditional single-note perfumes. It paved the way for future innovations and cemented the connection between fashion and fragrance.

Coco Chanel marketed Chanel No. 5 as a symbol of modern femininity and luxury. Its success was immense, and it became a favorite among high society and celebrities. One of the most famous endorsements came from Marilyn Monroe, who famously said she wore "just a few drops of Chanel No. 5"  every evening before going to bed.

Australian actress Nicole Kidman became the face of Chanel No. 5 in 2004. She appeared in a lavish, cinematic commercial directed by Baz Luhrmann, which was well-received and highlighted the timeless appeal of the perfume.