Sarsaparilla
A gust of air briefly invades the saloon’s privacy stirring the wispy miasmic haze floating over the heads of cowpokes smoking “Quirlys,” Mexican-style roll-your-own cigarettes popular in these “parts.” They are made with Bull Durham tobacco and corn shuck paper.
It is late summer, dry, and Tumbleweeds roam freely.
The vaquero’s
horse neighs when the rider dismounts from his A-fork saddle. The fancy
silver post horns and bucking roll hardware glisten in the midday sun. They are
uncommon in south Texas. “Maybe he’s a night rider?” People were suspicious of
strangers. They had reason.
Like the sound
of the shopkeeper’s doorbells, jiggling spurs announce the stranger’s arrival to
the cowhands gathered inside the (Not So) Long Branch. They thirst and
seek female companions. A long shadow fills the doorway to this dusty den of
inequity just before the lanky steely-eyed
trail rider steps through the double-action hinged doors. He drags his weary high-heel
boots over to the bar. He is tall in the saddle, boots on or off. A varnish of grimy sweat coats the stubble on
a face that presents an ill-tempered expression offered in response to his last meal. He rubs
trail dust off his now open duster pushing it aside to reveal the incongruously
named Peacemaker on his hip. He is a shootist – one bad buckaroo.
“ Howdy Stranger. How
about buying a lonely girl a drink?”
Tipping back his high-crowned 10 gallon Stetson, the rider walks towards the bar
while a dance hall girl approaches. “Howdy Stranger.
How about buying a lonely girl a drink?” “Sure, thing Mam…be happy to,” the shootist says quite politely while reaching into
his pocket for a coin. “Sam” has
already poured the unblushing bar girl a drink from a special bottle of “Red
Eye” which was really cold tea .
Men considered most saloon or
dance hall girls as “good“ women. You had to treat them “respectable” - as “ladies”
because men in the Old West tended to revere all women as such and
because the women or the saloonkeeper demanded it. Any man who mistreated these
women would quickly become a social outcast, and if he insulted one, he could
be shot.
A saloon or dancehall girl’s job was
to brighten the evenings of the many lonely men of the western towns. In the
Old West, men usually outnumbered women by at least three to one – sometimes
more. Starved for female companionship, the saloon girl would sing for the men,
dance with them, and talk to them – inducing them to remain in the bar, buying
drinks, and a gamble. Most saloon girls were refugees from farms or mills,
lured by posters and handbills advertising high wages, easy work, and fine
clothing. Many were widows, needy women of good morals, trying to earn a living
in an era that offered them few opportunities. Was there another type of “Old West” saloon girl?
Sure, there were plenty, but you generally found them only in the really raunchy places and
saloons.
“What are you
going to have friend, whiskey?” Sam asks while reaching for a bottle of “rot gut” but the shootist shakes
his head. “Sarsaparilla“ comes the reply and the saloon momentarily becomes as silent as a church
until an inebriated but armed transgressor rises from behind to malign the newcomer’s manhood. The shootist spins
around cocking the hammer on his single-action Colt and prepares to confront
the interloper only to watch as the
challenger makes a few menacing gestures, slurs some epithets alleging real men drink alcohol and falls to the floor passing out cold. The gaggle of patrons all laugh.
Sam hands the stranger
a brown bottle of Sunset to slake his thirst, but the shootist first scans
the ornate label before pulling out the
cork with his teeth. There were promises of renewed health and vigor, consumption
would be abated, hair regrown. It was guaranteed to cure whatever ailed him, including his stomach rumbling
from last night’s stewpot Jackpot Jambalaya. It was just what he needed or so
he thought. Several bar flies join the
stranger, elbows on the bar, brown bottles in hand. One cow hand yells, “Pay no
mind to Murph,” pointing to the floor hugger. “He’s all hat and no cattle.”
More laughs…
It's the Old West (but you know that), a small
frontier town being controlled by
ruthless mob boss Decker (Ever notice they usually get only one name?)
and his henchmen. After the local sheriff died under mysterious circumstances,
Decker arranged to have the hapless town
drunk , Murph, appointed sheriff for
obvious reasons, but the mayor had another idea. He sends for the shootist, Dan
Destry, son of a famous two-fisted lawman….and you can guess how the rest of
the story goes.
But here’s the
thing about the drink our shootist and fellow imbibers are enjoying: What was
called sarsaparilla in the Old West often did not contain the requisite Smilax root at all. It was made from birch
oil and sassafras, the dried root bark of certain flowering trees. So, while
many brown bottles were labeled
Sarsaparilla sometimes that beverage was simply a “root beer.”
Anyway, contrary
to what Hollywood directors would have us believe, sarsaparilla was widely consumed all across 19th-century
America, easy to find in the local saloon and said to be quite popular with
cowboys and ranchers looking to tame a troubled tummy, add a little pep in
their step, or seek relief from other
ailments. Like most patent medicines, however, sarsaparilla was credited with far more benefits
than it had. Aside from claiming to be a remedy for all the usual headaches,
stomach aches, tumors and general “weaknesses,” it was also believed to be a
cure for various STDs (herpes, syphilis, gonorrhea).
Now which of
these ailments our shootist might have suffered in addition to tummy rumbling is
immaterial since Sarsaparilla would not
have cured him of any of them.
Today, root beer
is a summer barbecue and ice cream shop staple in America. (Who doesn’t like a
root beer float?) You can pick up IBC, A & W, or even Dog’s n’ Suds at your local supermarket. If you want to
sample the real Old West, however, and
wash down that trail dust with a
bottle of Sarsaparilla Soda, you’re going to have to do some hard riding Kemo
Sabe, “Yee Haw.” Head out to….. Winchester, Durham or maybe Freshwater
- but before you saddle up note these towns are
in the UK. The soda is not sold in the United States. Still thirsty? Happy Trails to you.
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